The Overlooked Organisms

This article was first published in May 2014–I am republishing it today (May 2016)  to promote Alison Pouliot’s upcoming fungi workshops and because  Alison Pouliot is tomorrow night’s guest on RRR’s Greening the Apocalypse.

‘I became an amateur mycologist years ago when I had a very nice plate of pappardelle and wild mushrooms in a restaurant in New York, and by midnight all my internal organs were beginning to shut down. I was rushed to hospital, and if I’d gotten there one hour late I would’ve been gone. So I became very interested, and I discovered how much we didn’t know.’ – Jim Jarmusch [1]

I was ecstatic to learn of a connection between my favourite director (Jarmusch) and my favourite kingdom (fungi). I was equally overjoyed to interview ecologist and photographer Alison Pouliot last weekend before taking part in one of her advanced fungi workshops.

What drew you to fungi?

AP: Well I guess it is all part of the ecology, it’s all connected. So it’s not specifically these organisms called mushrooms and toadstools, or jelly fungi or whatever. It’s more about they connect up all ecosystems. So just about every single tree, most of our tree species, every orchid, many grasses… all have these relationships with fungi- it’s just that we don’t see them because they’re going on under the soil… so it was more about the processes and the connectivity of systems that really intrigued me about fungi.’

So do you have a photography background or…

I originally worked in ecology, trained in science, but then I moved across to environmental photography, so I’m still working in those same ecosystems, and documenting them, but rather than counting and identifying what was there it was more about trying to portray that and capture it visually. So to show people changes over time in ecosystems.

And so how long have you been doing these courses?

The fungi ones I’d say about fourteen or fifteen years.

Can you talk about what courses there are available?

The one I did yesterday was I guess a basic introduction to the kingdom, so making people aware, or hoping to help people to understand the great diversity of different fungal forms that are out there. It’s not just your cap and stalk style mushroom but all these other bizarre forms as well- and in particular what their function and importance and ecological role is, though I do touch on the cultural aspects as well, such as the edible fungi and the toxic ones and the psychotropic ones and the history and mythology. Today it’s a little more advanced. We’re looking at how we actually go about putting fungi in to different groups based on their morphological forms, or based on their trophic lifestyles or based on whether they’re toxic or edible. It’s about the different ways we categorise and put fungi in to different groups based on their different features. I also do some that have a little bit more I guess survey, conservation, ecological approach that I often run with uni students about how we actually go out in to the environment and survey fungi; how we find out what is there and how we document that. Some of those are coming up in the Otways. And then I do the odd one where there’s always a lot of interest in edibility and wild foraging though that’s always tricky in Australia because we don’t know a lot about what’s edible and what’s toxic because we don’t have that long history of cultural association that you see in countries in Europe and also in Asia. I still do a workshop where there’s much more focus on how to recognise some of the more easily identifiable edible fungi and their toxic counterparts.

Great. And do you do cooking in those workshops?

I’m not really a chef. I don’t do cooking. What I’ve done is teamed up with some people who are good chefs and good with fungi. I did that last year at a couple of wineries where we go out and have a forage and we also have some commercial species as well as wild picked species and we have a chef there who shows how to prepare fungi, how to preserve fungi and how to cook fungi- and I’ve just got one of those this year with a fantastic chef up near Albury, a place called Kergunyah, at Waddington’s Restaurant, so I’ve got one of those happening in May.

Great. Do you travel the world doing any of this stuff?

Yeah. At the moment they’re pretty much based in Victoria. I’ve got a couple of in the ACT and NSW. And I also spend half the year in Europe so I get a second Autumn over there. I get Autumn in Australia then Autumn in Europe and I’m running them in Switzerland and France, in the Jura regions.

So every year you go half half?

Pretty much yeah.

So you’ve built your life around fungi availability.

You could say that!

Do you have a European heritage?

No. I’m about six generations Australian, so originally yeah but I pretty much consider myself pretty Australian really.

What started it? When you were a kid were you interested in fungi and science?

I was just interested in nature. It was nature full-stop. It was crawling ‘round the bush and whether it was sundews or orchids or beetles or fungi it was all interesting. Also it was also aesthetic. You know. The fungal forms are so beautiful. Same with whether it’s insects or orchids or whatever so that scientific curiosity was there really young but it was also just wow this is so exquisitely beautiful or incredibly bizarre or absolutely revolting or whatever it was like this fascination and all of these forms and trying to understand why is it purple or why has it got spikes or why is it jellylike? So I guess it was a combination of the aesthetics and the science. It started pretty young I think.

I found out yesterday- my favourite film-maker is Jim Jarmusch- and his new film has a character who is obsessed with mushrooms. And he said in interviews his whole life he has been interested in the life cycle of mushrooms because he ate a poisonous one and he nearly died! So I love that um there’s so much art in a mushroom.

I guess one of the great joys in doing these workshops is when I give someone a ten times magnifying lens, nothing fancy, and they look at something and you hear this squeak of excitement. That makes me so happy when someone sees something that they hadn’t seen before simply because it is magnified. They see all of the intricacy and the beautiful forms and so that is a great pleasure when you see someone discover something, beauty in something, that they weren’t able to see just with their eyes.

Do you have any favourite mushroom books?

Wow! I’ve got about a hundred.

Yeah I bet.

I mean I’ve got those that are favourites because they’re so, so detailed and comprehensive and have documented so many species. They are amazing for the work behind them. But I think my favourite ones are the old, the books of old illustrations, 17th and 16th century first illustrations of fungi so again it comes back to the aesthetics and the simplicity of those early diagrams. And then there’s those that have beautiful photography. l like different books for different reasons but again a lot of it is about aesthetics more so than the content of the science that is in them.

Have you been to Japan or China to see mushrooms?

I haven’t. I’ve travelled quite extensively in Asia but not in China or Japan, but certainly the Chinese, and the Japanese, know their mushrooms incredibly well and have those amazing very ancient histories of their usage both in a culinary sense but also medicinally as well.

What are you going to do next? What’s next?

After fungi? Is there life after fungi?

Is there?

I used to do this with invertebrates, with those little spineless creatures, you know the crustaceans and insects and all those sorts of things and again it was the same reason as I do this with fungi. They are the overlooked organisms. They’re not the charismatic mega-fauna. They’re not the koalas and the organisms that we see on TV that get promoted. These are the sort of obscure ones that I guess fall through the cracks of conservation and slip out of our consciousness. So I like batting for little guys, whether it’s insects or whether it’s fungi, which we don’t think about a lot because most of them are underground. I spend quite a bit of time doing underwater work. Again it is a sphere that only some people get to explore because it is not that accessible for many people to go beneath the surface of the ocean. I’m not sure what I will do next. I guess it’s about always trying to strive to find ways to show parts of the world that perhaps are less seen and to inspire people that they are worth caring about, and conserving, and protecting. It comes from a very strong conservation focus there, but I think you can’t just tell people about conservation, you can’t preach it, you’ve just go to let people work it out and be inspired by what they see and experience. I guess it is about developing that awareness. That’s what I see my role as trying to do.

Do you think that most of the people that do the course are involved in permaculture in some way? Who is doing these courses?

That’s a great question. They come from a spectrum of backgrounds but I guess there are two main groups. There is those who have an ecological interest because I’m promoted as fungal ecology rather than edible mushrooms or something. There is always a strong ecological or conservation interest but then there’s an equally strong interest in edible fungi. There’s a whole sort of new wave in the last couple of decades of wild edible foraging and harvesting whether its weeds or fungi or whatever so there’s always a lot of people interested in which species can they wild forage. I also get lots of aesthetes, so you always get lots of photographers, illustrators, and painters. That’s great to get that perspective as well, where they’re not coming so much from a knowledge or ecological base. It’s more from an aesthetic base. And then you get a few who are interested in the whole history and mythology or indigenous use of fungi so then I get people who have a pharmacological interest so…I had a person who once was a forensic mycologist. I’m amazed. This is a person who basically looks at bodies that for some reason are no longer alive and looks at the fungi on them to solve a crime situation!

Oh that’s fascinating.

Yeah so it’s amazing! As I say we get chefs, forensic mycologists, your painters, permaculture people…so it’s an amazing…People come to fungi from a lot of different backgrounds which I’ve realised in doing these courses. They are a really fascinating kingdom of organisms and I love to introduce people to them and to share this amazing kingdom. Over this Autumn there’s a whole heap of workshops coming up so if people are interested they might want to have a look at quick look at my website.

Did you say that they are in Victoria and other states?

I’ve got mostly in Victoria. I’ve done a couple already in Canberra and one in NSW coming up in a month’s time.

Great. And what is your website address?

Audio of this interview is available at

The Bizarre and the Beautiful- A Deeper Exploration of a Curious Kingdom

Woodend Neighbourhood House Sunday April 13 2014

Photographs by Alison Pouliot, Grace Brown and Sarah Coles


A room of tables laden with the freshly foraged. Morels, books, magnifying glasses, Amanita muscaria, slime moulds, lichens, cordyceps, fungi themed playing cards, pine mushrooms, death caps, mythology illustrations and a woman proudly holding a damp log. The workshop participants are diverse: A new Dad, a cop, an ex-chef, a fashion designer, some goat-farmers. In 2012 I attended the Fungi- An Introduction to a Curious Kingdom workshop and the participants included a Hungarian engineer, a survivalist, a Hansard reporter, a jazz musician and Todd, founder of Fungi Culture. The Bizarre and the Beautiful- A Deeper Exploration of a Curious Kingdom kicks off with a lecture. The woman cradling the log (which is covered in exquisite green and teal fungi) turns out to be Cathy, Pouliot’s assistant, a learned microbiologist. The group talk about their links to fungi. The ex-chef can spot an edible mushroom at fifteen paces. A man tells the story of how lichen destroyed his roof, ‘They wrecked my roof. Colorbond steel!’ Pouliot talks about the cultural side of fungi, how folks ate mushrooms for subsistence during the war, how in France they eat chanterelles, morels, truffles. In Italy its porcini o’clock. The goat-farmers are at the workshop because they are worried their goats are going to eat something poisonous.

Smelling a morel I get to wondering why am I here? What started this? Why do I want to be a shiitake farmer? As a kid Dad took me foraging one time at the local golf course. We found a lot of golf balls. In my twenties I watched my friend collect mushrooms in a Frisbee and nibble one before we walked home. By the time we reached home the mushrooms had turned powdery and yellow. I phoned poisons information and after describing the mushroom and knowing that my friend was not going to die the woman on the end of the line dryly remarked, ‘The next time your friend wants to get mushrooms can I suggest he go to the supermarket.’ That friend went on to learn quite a bit about foraging and a few years later cooked me puffballs on the BBQ at All Nations Park. I got into fungi reading Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma where he wrote, ‘Without fungi to break things down, the Earth would long ago have suffocated beneath a blanket of organic matter created by plants.’ Lynden showed me his copy of Mycelium Running: How Mushrooms Can Help Save The World by Paul Stamets and declared his love for Dusty Yao. I house-sat for someone with a Terrence McKenna book. A lover bought me a truffle omelette. I worked as a cook making shiitake stock using dried imports from China. Someone appeared carrying a box of slippery jacks. I got to thinking about mycoremediation. Game on.

Pouliot projects her brilliant photographs as Cathy hands round a basket of Agaricus xanthodermus (aka poisonous Frisbee mushroom ‘o’ death) The lecture about the Order Agaricales is perfect because Pouliot explains something difficult simply. She seasons with interesting facts such as: there is a type of mushroom in the Family Coprinaceae that when consumed makes alcohol impossible to digest so they make them into tablets for alcoholics/ the Cordyceps species of fungus attack caterpillars and then parasitise their dead bodies/ the biggest organism in the world is a fungus. Pouliot describes fungi as a ‘great matrix or tapestry…connecting up ecologies’ and explains that tree roots need fungi to ‘provide an interface’, in order to absorb nutrients and water. Pouliot demonstrates the role of mycelium using a piece of PVC pipe, several pairs of pantyhose and volunteers from the first two rows. She explains that beneath the soil are networks of fungal threads represented by the stretched tights. After witnessing this I will forever know that a tree needs fungal interactions for optimum growth. Pouliot talks about how Europeans tend to use their senses to identify a mushroom. They’ll smell it. Run their fingers along it. Snap a piece off to hear it. Put a little bit on their tongue. ‘In Australia we don’t tend to be as intimate with fungi. A lot of us come from a mycophobic background.’ Cathy passes round a basket of mushrooms and Pouliot urges, ‘Don’t be afraid to sensorially engage.’

We divide into groups and gather round tables for a fungi identification session. With the lecture fresh in our minds we know that some mushrooms smell like phenol and that the death cap which killed those people last year has a broad volva. Coprinus comatus looks like a lawyer’s wig and will self digest if left on the backseat. The fungi that freaks me out the most is Cordyceps- killer fungi that featured in a David Attenborough documentary that showed an ant’s brain being controlled by a Cordycep. The ones on the table look like a bony human finger. When I am faced with categorising the puffball as edible or inedible I slide it into the edible area alongside the Saffron Milkcaps before one of the group tells me that they are poisonous. When they are young they are edible. I think back to the BBQ and am hit with the realisation that I have possibly eaten a poisonous mushroom and survived. But according to our teacher people with European heritage can sometimes tolerate toxic mushrooms. (My family of Europeans is riddled with so many autoimmune diseases it was nice to finally find an upside to being a Coles!) I love mushrooms and I want to eat them all the time. Pouliot says that in Australia ‘We probably have a huge range of culinary fungi but we just don’t know what they are yet.’ Only 20-30% of Australian fungi have been identified. ‘Australia has one of the most diverse fungi spectrums in the world.’

Next is the wild part. We drive in a convoy up the mountain. On the dashboard is Nicholas P.Money’s book Mushroom. According to the author mycologists have named 74 000 fungal species but more than a million await discovery. We walk. Michael Pollan has written about ‘getting his eyes on’- that moment when you are foraging and you begin to be able to see the mushrooms. It happens as soon as our group walks from the car-park to the area beneath a tree.

An hour into the walk and dozens of species later I dare Sonny the new father to eat an unidentified mushroom,‘I’ll give you five bucks.’ I ask the ex-chef George, ‘What’s your favourite mushroom?’ and adore his answer, ‘The one in front of me.’ I talk to the goat-farming lady. Amateur mycophiles are on their knees, bent over sideways like windswept trees, with magnifying glasses inspecting Polypores. I overhear Cathy say she was up all night looking at slime moulds. I’m starting to get very hungry. Back in the car-park we part ways with grins on our faces and I feel like we are mycelium being sent out in to the world to tell people about fungi.

A character in Jarmusch’s Only Lovers Left Alive says, ‘We don’t know shit about fungi.’ He should go to one of Pouliot’s workshops. The workshop has forever altered the way that I look at a tree, where I used to imagine all of the roots that lay beneath, I now see the mycelium. The workshop forged new pathways in my brain, a new ecological matrix, and I am keen to learn more about the unseen things. Pouliot mentioned writings by an ecologist called E.O. Wilson. I believe that is where I will start.

[1] Quote lifted from an interview with Jarmusch by Tom Huddleston. You can read it here

Further mycophiling

NPR podcast interview with Nicholas P Money author of Mushroom

Study on alcohol intolerance after mushroom consumption

Scientific American article about world’s largest organism

Books by Paul Stamets

Watch this to develop a deep-seated fear of Cordyceps

About Todd Mansfield- founder of Fungi Culture




#EatBuyGrow Talks Feb 19 Melbourne


In 1969 Ravi Shankar, Joan Baez, Arlo Guthrie, Santana, Grateful Dead, the Who, Creedence, Hendrix and a whole bunch of other legends played at Woodstock. I got to thinking about Woodstock sitting in the crowd at the #EatBuyGrow talks put on by the Regrarians last week. It wasn’t just the paisley revival or availability of kombucha that got me on this Woodstock trip.

How I arrived at Woodstock was in two ways- the first was the speakers are the rock-stars of the food sovereignty movement- Joel Salatin, Darren Doherty, Tammi Jonas, David Holmgren, Matt Wilkinson and Costa Georgiadis among other notables- and secondly the room felt like a tide of something- a wave of change set to burst out of Collingwood Town Hall to soak the soil of the nation. The movement is small- while a couple hundred of us were packed elbow to elbow in to the hall to watch the vision quest unfurl- most people would have been down at the supermarket shopping for pre-washed lettuce and hepatitis berries- but it is a start. I spotted a shearer and a cheese maker and Jonathon from 3CR’s Food Fight in the audience: Heretics + organic ham= Game on. The speakers were so great that I don’t doubt this thing is gonna catch on.

Regrarian Lisa Heenan smashed it out of the park by announcing, ‘There’s two things I’m addicted to: raw milk and sex.’ Then Joel Salatin, Mr egg-mobile-crop-rotation farmer and author of Folks This Aint Normal, took the stage. If you don’t know Salatin he is all of the synonyms for heretic: dissident, dissenter, non conformist, unorthodox thinker, apostate, freethinker, iconoclast, schismatic and renegade. Salatin is one of the great orators of our time. There is something about the way he tells a story that gets his point across and last Thursday his point was that the industrial food complex is built on some pretty shitty orthodoxies. He made this point by talking us through the various crackpot theories that once dominated human thought such as the earth is flat, ‘the spirit of whooping cough’, slavery, ‘breastfeeding is bad’ and bloodletting and then urged us to consider recent farming methods, ‘[T]he agricultural experts and the most accredited academic agricultural teachers around the world, especially the developed world, told us we need to be more efficient at growing beef and so, “Let’s take dead cows and grind them up and feed them to cattle!” and so farmers like me were taken to free steak dinners to teach us this new scientific orthodoxy.’ In classic Salatin style he cracks a joke, ‘You get status if you learn how to say Bovine spongiform encephalopathy.’ Then his microphone stand folds in on itself and Darren Doherty wanders over to fix it and cracks a joke about ‘Brewer’s droop’. (Maybe when you spend a lot of time pondering ecological destruction you crack more jokes)

Salatin points out other accepted norms , ‘Now there is a lot of orthodoxy around genetically modified organisms, that this is going to be the way to feed the world. We have an orthodoxy around chemical agriculture.’ Salatin goes on to list ‘a few cultural orthodoxies that I see in the techno-sophisticated West and dare to question them.’ He talks about how there is a prevailing belief bandied about by Big Ag and politicians that nature is sick; that if a cow is sick it is ‘pharmaceutically disadvantaged’; how there is no such thing as an ‘animal-less ecosystem’ and yet the mainstream farming method of our day is segregation, ‘We put all the animals in factory houses and then grow all our feed stuff with chemical petroleum based fertilisers!’ Salatin goes on to critique the idea in farming that animals don’t move which manifests as confining animals indoors on concrete floors. He suggests farming around the idea that animals move and need portable infrastructure like fencing, water and shelter. ‘You see how the pattern drives the function drives the form.’ Plant customs don’t escape Salatin’s attention either, ‘Another orthodoxy of our day is that annuals are more important than perennials.’ He points out that all of the grains that are subsidised in the US are annuals, ‘It gives you pause when you realise that the entire orthodoxy of the policy is to subsidise things that actually destroy the soil.’ He slays agricultural systems based on petroleum where carbon ends up in landfills or burnt, ‘The natural pattern is carbon centric- that is the ultimate way we build soil.’

Salatin asks, ‘Does it matter if we have happy pigs?’ He talks about how in the US scientists are trying to genetically engineer pigs that don’t have the porcine stress gene- instead of ensuring the pigs aren’t stressed by letting them ‘express their pigness’- the orthodoxy is to alter the pig instead of the farming practice. Salatin cautions, ‘A culture that wants to honour the Tomness of Tom and the Maryness of Mary has to start by honouring the pigness of the pig…If the orthodoxy says that the pigness of the pig doesn’t matter then it is very easy for the culture to run rampant over the individual desire, expression, interests of individuals within its society like people who don’t want to vaccinate their children from measles* or people who want to- imagine this- drink milk!’

Salatin explores the fault in practices like, ‘Efficiency requires mono speciation,’ and ’Home kitchens are unnecessary’ and makes fun of paranoid people who fear compost piles, ‘Complexity runs regulators into spasms of fear.’ He points out ,‘The orthodoxy is that a really productive, efficient farm is supposed to stink up the neighbourhood and pollute everybody’s groundwater.’ He discusses, the disconnect that occurs when people ‘spend more time researching the latest dysfunction in the Kardashian household’ than actually understanding their food. ‘50% of our customers don’t know that a chicken has bones!’

Salatin is preaching to the converted; when he says, ‘I think compost piles are sexy,’ everybody claps. He ends by describing how the less informed people are the more they fear the food system and rely upon the bureaucrats to protect them from the ‘bogeyman of raw milk’ and ‘the bogeyman of fresh fruit.’ He describes a warped system where ‘Coca cola is safe but raw milk is not safe.’ I’m on the same page as Salatin but the way he frames the discussion is enlivened and interesting, and makes me optimistic because he has the moxie to convert the people pushing their trolleys around Woolworths. He says, ‘What we need right now to create some sanity in this is to carve out a place of unregulated, direct, farm to table food transactions.’ A shortened food chain is an accountable one.






Consumed: Food For A Finite Planet- Book Review



Consumed: Food For a Finite Planet by Sarah Elton

ISBN-13: 978-0-226-09362-8

Published 2013 by The University of Chicago Press 348 pages

‘The food system as we know it was assembled in a few decades- and if it can be built that quickly, it can be reassembled and improved in the same amount of time.’

The Australian Bureau of Statistics website has a Population Clock that at the time of writing shows an overall population increase in Australia of one person every one minute and 18 seconds. United Nations data estimates that by 2050 the population of Australia will be over 34 million and the world population will be more than 9 billion. The Economist just released a data visualisation about urbanisation and the rise of the megacity.

The predicted explosion in world population is one reason I’m reading Consumed: Food For a Finite Planet. A less apocalyptic reason is that it is a joy to read. Elton, who wrote Locavore: From Farmer’s Fields to Rooftop Gardens, writes brilliantly. Consumed is engaging, bloody interesting and drenched in scientific fact. The book asks the question, ‘How will we feed ourselves in 2050?’ and answers it by exploring topics such as population, industrial agriculture, loss of farmland, greenhouse gases, seed sovereignty and organic systems across France, India, China, Canada, Australia, Lebanon, Cambodia, Norway and more.

Consumed is divided into 3 parts Soil, Seeds, and Culture. ‘Soil’ opens in India where Elton observes ‘[T]hese farmers are proving that small-scale organic farming can feed a country… Chandrakalabai’s story shows us that small farmers in the developing world can lessen their input costs and grow organically, which increases their yields…It’s a simple story that has big implications for the rest of the world…’ India is a country that has suffered terribly at the hands of industrial agriculture. Elton explains, ‘Between 1997 and 2005, in Maharashta alone, nearly twenty nine thousand farmers killed themselves in despair, often by drinking the pesticides that helped to put them in debt.’ She writes about the effects industrial food has wreaked across India and summarises, ‘If industrial food remains the status quo, we will continue to lose farmland, we will continue to drain freshwater aquifers and emit tonnes and tonnes of greenhouse gases’ and quotes the Rodale Institute study who ‘compared the soil health of organic farms and conventional farms in a thirty year long side-by-side farming systems trial’ and ‘found that conventional agriculture produces 45 percent more greenhouse gases than organic.’

‘Seeds’ opens in China, in the Yuanyang rice terraces or ‘Eastern Grain Barn.’ Reading the ancient methods of rice farming reads like the permaculture principles being taught today, ‘By harnessing nature’s systems, the Hani created what is called an agroecological landscape…Every aspect of the landscape was planned by these ancient architects…they positioned the rice terraces further down the hillside because that’s where the temperature heats up…’ Elton examines the shift in the Chinese rice fields away from old seed lines to high yielding hybrid rice varieties that require pesticides and make the old sustainable system of growing rice, ducks and fish in one ecosystem impossible. The new hybrids signal an end to biodiversity across the world’s food crops and increased risks from concentration of ownership.

‘Lab Rice: A Better Seed For A Hotter Planet’ is the chapter where you get a sense of how brilliant Elton’s writing is when Elton tackles the loaded issue of genetically modified foods with finesse. ‘Far away from the rice terraces of China…’ Elton talks to plant scientists who are trying to create a rice seed suited to global warming. ‘Rice is a tropical plant, one that thrives in the warm, humid climate. But it doesn’t like it too hot.’ As temperatures rise the production of rice is predicted to fall so scientists all over the world are collaborating on the C4 Rice Project to try to genetically engineer rice for efficiency at higher temperatures. ‘If C4 rice were to be released today it would most likely be met with outrage and controversy.’ Elton’s conclusion echoes what many people in the Australian food sovereignty movement are saying, ‘[T]he biggest problem with biotechnology isn’t the science. The problem is the business and the way the seed industry uses the science.’ Patenting of seed is the most devastating example of where biotech has gone wrong. Elton explains the famous case where a Canadian farmer Percy Schmeiser was sued by biotech company Monsanto because they found their patented canola growing on his farm. (You can’t read this chapter without thinking about organic Western Australian farmer Steve Marsh who last year attempted to sue his neighbour for contaminating his farm with GM canola.) When people defend biotech they usually say something like ‘They are going to feed the world,’ when in fact the main two things biotech has focussed on thus far are insect and herbicide resistance. Where Dr Vandana Shiva suggests abandoning GM altogether, Elton is more middle of the road, ‘perhaps there is a way to rescue the science and innovation from this morass.’ The chapter looks at the innovative work of a scientist, Richard Jefferson, who is working to democratise biotech and make the science open source.

‘Culture’ kicks off in the Aubrac mountains of France, in a subsistence farming cooperative that made the choice about 30 years ago to walk away from industrial farming. Elton is witnessing ‘transhumance’, the annual migration of cows to the green pastures and spending time with the cheesemakers who produce Laguiole cheese. ‘The concept of food culture is possibly best expressed by the word terroir. This word is commonly used in the context of wine to describe external factors, such as soil, climate, and geography, that influence the way a grape grows so that is has a particular terroir, an almost intangible essence that defines its flavour and body and makes it what it is. Other foods have terroir too- cheese, chocolate…a taste of place.’ Elton interviews Monsiuer Valadier, ‘over his lifetime, he has led a movement to save the Aubrac’s farming traditions from evisceration.’ This section is timely for Australian readers as it looks at the time in 1995 when the cheesemakers had a bacteria scare and the media put pressure on them to abandon the raw milk that is the basis of their product. The cooperative investigated and it turned out the source of the contamination was what the cows were eating, and not the absence of pasteurisation, ‘They learned that on dairy farms where cows eat silage, there’s ten times the risk of pathogens entering the milk supply than there is on farms where cows are fed grass and dry fodder.’

Elton examines how food culture has eroded; the rise of the supermarket and readymade meals, ‘We are at a turning point- or perhaps we’ve made the turn already. We’ve broken from the historical narrative of food preparation and have outsourced cooking to food services corporations.’ ‘[T]he future of sustainability of our food system is dependent on our food culture.’ France has this thing called appellation d’origine controlee AOC which is certification that promotes terroir based foods. It is a classification system that acknowledges regenerative farming, biodiversity and place of origin. This section profiles work being done to protect agricultural heritage through Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems (GIAHs). Elton talks to a biologist in Quebec who is breeding a heritage variety of cattle. She writes of food culture programs in Morocco, Lebanon, Cambodia and Ethiopia and the book ends with a look at urban agriculture in Detroit. ‘Food might be complicated, but it is possible to distil a basic set of criteria we can use to measure a future system and guide us toward creating something better than we have today.’

Consumed is a clarion call for an end to industrial agriculture and its attendant miseries of artificial pesticides, herbicides and fertilisers; the mono-cropping of biodiverse land; factory farms and eating out of season. The book offers the steps we need to take: support farming that preserves soil and water, preserve genetic heritage, pay farmers a living wage, build alternative food structures and foster a cultural reawakening. This book ranks up there with food sovereignty classics like Omnivore’s Dilemma, One Straw Revolution and The Fatal Harvest Reader. It offers an insightful introduction to what sustainable agriculture is for readers new to the topic, and offers enough new insights that experts could read this too. The twin strengths of this book are its global scope and its meticulous research. Please read it.


Sarah Coles is a Beacon Reader journalist who has published reviews for Spinach 7 and Vibewire and is writing a book Rooted: Adventures in Antipodean Food Politics.

Berocca Vs Carrot

Last night before I went to the Wheeler Centre to hear Michael Pollan speak about food politics I had a Berocca. In the talk Pollan used a bag of groceries from Woolworths to illustrate the points he was making, and at one point he pulled Berocca out of it.

Pollan is a Professor of Science Journalism and the author of several food politics books. The talk drew on the ideas contained in his books. In The Omnivore’s Dilemma (2007) Pollan visits Joel Salatin’s Polyface Farm[1], (a self-regulating, small-scale farm that doesn’t use chemicals or antibiotics), and traces the industrialisation of the food supply to Earl Butz, Nixon’s secretary of agriculture, who encouraged large-scale farming. Before Butz America had a New Deal farm policy that limited crop surplus and maintained a good price for farmers. Butz dismantled the New Deal farm and installed a new system to subsidise farmers. The policies were “rewritten to encourage farmers to plant crops like corn, soy, and wheat fencerow to fencerow.”

Continue reading “Berocca Vs Carrot”

Le Monde Salon Monsanto

The World According to Monsanto, a 2008 doco by Marie-Monique Robin, investigates the biotech company Monsanto- examining the use of genetically modified seed, bovine growth hormone, polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) and Agent Orange. The film looks at Monsanto’s carnage in the United States, Canada, India, Mexico, Paraguay, the UK and France.  The doco examines how Monsanto has come to dominate the world food supply through dodgy pressure tactics and the suppression and manipulation of scientific data. It doesn’t shy from the fact that Monsanto colludes with government- here is a link to some shocking footage from the doco of George Bush Snr touring the Monsanto facility.:

The doco can be viewed for free at

Eat Fake Food. As Much As You Want. Mostly E numbers.

Stefan Gates Off His Face On E

Halfway through my quest to figure out what is in Fruche I watched part three of Food Additives: An Edible Adventure on SBS. It was presented by a food writer called Stefan Gates who was so pro-additive he talked about ‘the magic we’ve come to expect from supermarket food.’ The show started with him glossing over public fears of food additives, then the documentary goes on to posit that artificial sweeteners are saving us all from dying of diabetes and all of the emulsifiers, stabilisers and thickeners that the food companies are pumping into our food are the ‘unsung heroes of food science’. The worst bit is where he holds up a bottle of salad dressing and marvels at how the herbs stay suspended in the bottle. Or gets excited about margarine. The documentary is a thinly veiled marketing exercise. Shame. In 2008 he won the Slow Food Award for his series Cooking In The Danger Zone and when he was a kid he was on the cover of a Led Zeppelin album. What went wrong? Did someone from Kraft make him an offer he couldn’t refuse? Or did Qingdao Dehui Ocean Trading Co Ltd (manufacturers of E407) threaten to cut off his balls?

McShite Burger

If this movie was a food it would be a legend burger


If this food were a movie it would star Brad Pitt as an IRA henchman

Last night I watched an asinine movie with Brad Pitt playing an IRA hitman. Last year a friend and I watched THE BLUE ANGEL, a Marlene Dietrich film from 1929, and I realised that you could watch an incredible movie every night of your life until you die and still not have watched them all. So it’s always disappointing when I wind up on the couch watching Brad Pitt say ‘Da’. It’s the same with food. Why do people eat McDonalds Legend Burgers when there’s field mushrooms to be had? Why do I crave the Belgian chocolates that I got out of the dumpster when there is an apricot tree in the vacant lot opposite my house?